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Ragi never really left South Indian kitchens. While polished grains took over city shelves, finger millet held its place in porridge, in kali, and in the flat breads people grew up on.

Start with kanji

The easiest introduction is a thin porridge. Whisk a couple of spoons of ragi flour into cold water first — always cold, or it will seize into lumps — then cook it out over a low flame, stirring, until it thickens and loses its raw smell. Finish it savoury with buttermilk, salt and shallot, or sweet with a little jaggery.

Ragi in flatbread

Ragi has no gluten, so a dough made from it alone will not stretch. Pat it out by hand rather than rolling, or cut it with wheat flour if you want something more forgiving. A one-to-two ratio of ragi to wheat gives you the colour and flavour without fighting the dough.

Why people keep it around

It is a whole grain with a good deal of fibre, and it is filling in a way that lasts — which is the practical reason it survives as a breakfast and as a first food for children. Nothing exotic; just a grain that does its job.

Store the flour in an airtight jar. Whole-grain flours carry their natural oils and go stale faster than refined ones, so buy in quantities you will get through.

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